01
Pick the Mountain
Over a decade walking Yunnan's tea mountains
Where the old trees grow, who owns them, whether they're really over a hundred years old — this is the question of true or false. Lao Tian has walked Yunnan's major tea regions: Jingmai, Bangzhang, Bingdao, Yiwu, Mengku, Fengqing, Lincang, Menghai — and knows which mountains hold real old trees, and which are only good for stories. Picking the mountain isn't chasing famous names; it's deciding first whether this land is worth turning into tea you'll drink for years.
- No chasing famous names — read the grove, the soil, the ecosystem
- Long-term relationships with local farmers — information, not rumor
- Same mountain, different villages — huge difference; the details decide what's real
Two cautions: (1) an 'ancient-tree garden' is not 'ancient-tree tea' — the sign only means ancient trees grow there, not that your cake was picked from them; (2) a tea-world saying goes, 'Bingdao leaves never leave the tree, Banzhang never leaves the village' — fresh leaves from the very top areas barely reach the open market, so most products labeled 'Bingdao' or 'Banzhang' have little to do with the core villages.